Assessments - 1, GPA: 4
(
)
)
|
Facilidade de uso
Then, just before you plant, do one last shallow tilling to destroy the latest batch of weed sprouts. From then on, keep all cultivation shallow, so buried weed seeds stay buried too deep to germinate. Your tiller is ideal for this kind of shallow cultivating, and the work goes quickly because you oniy need to dig an inch or so deep. Some other tips: • Set the depth stake with its sloped edge forward (point backward) to minimize tangling on weeds and to speed up cultivating. Don’t set it too deep; cultivating must be shallow. » For weeding and cultivating in very tight spots, /ou can remove the outer tines and work with ust the inner tines which provide a 6" tilling width. In these tight situations, you may want to -emove the depth stake too. • The machine can be “steered” by tipping it slightly to either the left or the right. • To catch weeds growing very close to more mature garden crops or plants, you can pull the tiller backward so the tines lift up the plant leaves. This allows close weeding without damage to the foliage. • When cultivating around short ornamentals or flowers, place the machine on the far side of the plant so the earth is moved toward it, rather than stripped away from its roots. Photo 11A 14 Some Special Techniques Your handy tiller can do some impressive tricks for you after you’ve had a fair bit of practice with it. Here are a few: • To make a furrow, remove the two outer tine gangs and replace them with the short tine spacers. Also remove the depth stake. Use a high engine throttle setting and pull the machine slowly straight backward, allowing earth to spill out on each side. You’ll have a fine furrow. Photo 11B • For hills and raised beds, keep all the tines in place and pull the machine backward at a tiit, so you “hill’ up the earth on one side. • You don’t have to carry your tiller across the lawn to a work area. If you prefer, you can start the engine and “walk” the machine lightly over the grass. Keep the engine speed as low as possible— just high enough to keep the tines rotating at your walking pace, or the tines will try to dig into the lawn. Tilling Sod • Set the depth stake with its point facing forward and adjust it deeply enough so the machine will ¿Gum. - Photo 11C pull itself along at a steady pace. If you set the stake too deep, the machine won’t pull itself at all; if too shallow, it will want to move ahead too quickly. Keep in mind that one depth stake height adjustment either way can make a big difference. Take a little time and experiment. Different soils and tilling depths require different stake adjustments. • Occasionally, “sweeping” the tiller from side to side is helpful when the going is tough. This lets the tihes undercut roots and stones, leaving a completely tilled path. This can also be accomplished with multiple passes (normally required when breaking sod with a powered tiller). Tilling Seedbeds Your tiller will also do a nice job of digging up a small plot of soil for planting. This is usually easier than tilling sod. Once again, set the stake with the point facing forward and take time to get the depth adjusted correctly. • Here’s a trick to smooth the bed for seeding after it’s well-tilled: Hold the machine level and puli it quickly backward over the ground like a large hoe. The slower you work and the higher the engine speed, the more earth you'll move, so just use a quick motion and you’ll reduce the need for raking. Tilling in Stony Soil Your tiller was specifically designed to have a very smail center tine gap, allowing it to weed more effectively and to mix the soil more thoroughly. However, when tilling deeply in stony soil, you’ll find that stones can frequently lodge between the tines and tiller hood, stopping tine motion. If a rock jam occurs, shut off the engine and disconnect the spark plug wire. Take off the tine gangs to free the lodged stone. If this doesn’t remove the jam, pry out the rock by using a block of wood and a hammer. (Wear safety glasses if you need to do this.) Don’t try to rotate the tines backward, and don’t wear out the clutch trying to drive the jammed tines forward using engine power. Once loose, toss the stone away from the garden area. A Special Tine Pattern For Stony Soils If you encounter frequent rock jams in the tines when working in very stony soils, here’s a simpie change in the tine pattern that will generally minimize the problem. Wearing heavy gloves, remount the four tine gangs in the following order: move the inner-left tine gang to the inner-right position, and the inner-right gang to the inner-left position. Keep the outer tine gangs as is. Remember— the curved tine edges enter the soil first! 15 Remounting the tine gangs takes just a coupie >f minutes and you’ll need a pliers at most. The :igures to the right show the conventional tine :onfiguration where there is a narrow gap be-ween the center (inner) tines, and the special ¡tony soil tine pattern where the inner tin...
Este manual também é adequado para os modelos :Ferramentas para Jardim - 12001C (3.14 mb)