Assessments - 4, GPA: 3.8
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if a regular point jer be cause pressure presser elas Always make a test buttonhole in a piece of material 4 you are working with and check satin stitch spac ing. Use slightly loose tension on top for neater fin sb, buttonhole twist thread is recommended. O3cm(118) ‘ Det9rmining length f. (Not for stretch fabrics) Measure diameter and thickness of button and add 0.3cm (1/8”) for bar tack. Mark buttonhole size on material. (For stretch fabrics) Make it as same size as diameter less. c or a little I N For stretch fabrics, lay a piece of paper where buttonhole will be placed. \ Push back sliding base. Match arrow mark on foot with starting line 7 N Bar tacking: Set pattern selector to ( 5-6 stitches. ) and sew Ia I— I I L \ Left side: Change pattern to ( I] ). Sew left side from front to back until it reaches end line (5 4 Remember the measurement. Where arrow shows so it is not necessary to mark end lines © for all buttonholes. —-ia) —1 9— .. 3 6 II 44 e Bar tacking: Change pattern to ( ) and sew 5-6 stitches. I Right side: Change pattern to (CI ) and sew rightside until it reaches first bar tack. Quick finish: To prevent unstitching, set patternselector at ( ) and proceed for a few stitches. Cutting buttonholes Stick a needle or pin through bar tacks to preventovercutting. Cut buttonhole along center with but tonhole cutter, using steady firm pressure. Corded buttonholes A reinforced buttonhole, especially for knits, a corded buttonhole is useful. (1) Hook some crochet cotton onto the projection ® on buttonhole foot, then through slit 1holding both ends as shown in Fig., sew in sameJr way as for an ordinary buttonhole. (2) After finishing sewing, pull both ends of threadso that loop on other end disappears into buttonhole stitching. I (3) Cut both ends of thread. —20— Left and right side balance of buttonhole 7 Stitch density on right and left sides of buttonhole can be adjust by buttonhole balance control dial. This dial should usualy be in a neutral position (between +“ and “—“) . Always return to center position after making buttonholes. If the stitches on the right side of the buttonholeare too close together, turn the dial clockwise (+). Turning dial clockwise opens right side andcloses left side. 4 ‘1 If the stitches on the right side of the buttonhole / H1are too open, turn the dial counter-clockwise. Turning dial counter-clockwise closes right sideand opens left side. This dial can simultaneously adjust stretchstitch balance. Therefore please refer to page 23 when youmove this dial. —21— cc shown are all used whh stretcn and knit fabrics. These are special utility stitches built in the machine for your quick selection. 6 Rickrack briar stretch 8 Slraight stretch 15 Decoration stitch 16 Overcast stretch Cvricck stretch overlock stretch Adjusting stretch stitch balance In stretch stitch sewing, the stretch stitch adjuster should usually be in a neutral position (between ‘+“ and “—“). When sewing some fabrics, you may need to adjust this control to balance the stitches for appearance sake. If design seems open like the illustriations to the left, adjust the control slightly toward until de “—“ sign looks like the center design. If the design appears to be closed as in the right hand illustrations, turn the control toward “+“ until stitching is as you desire. This dial can simultaneously adjust left and right dde balance of buttonhole. Therefore please refer to page 21 when you move this dial. Always return to center position after making adjustments for stretch stitches. 6 4 J I —23— Ovenccxng sch sews a seam and oercasts edge of fabric at the same time. This pattern is suitable for thin jersey material. Use ball point needle to get better stitch performance. 01cm Set machine as shown. This pattern is suitable for thick jersey materials. 05cm I —24— .iICHwJ( Used for hemming skirts, trousers, suits, etc., without stitches showing on right side of material. For elastic materials, use pattern ( .4 ) 4. 1 5—4 \ J 1—2 J Fold material as shown ( place it under foot. (1) ....for thick materials. (2) . .. .for thin materials. ... wrong side), and 4 N It is preferable to baste or iron hem beforehand. Adjust zigzag width so that straight stitches are made on hem edge and slanting stitches pierce only one or two threads of fold. Adjust guide by turning small screw on right side so that it touches fold perfectly. Sew carefully, guiding fold against guide. needle is catching edge of fold too much. correct seam. © needle is not catching edge of fold at all. —25— Mending a rip Sew middle of tear first then sew on either side. A piece of gauze can be placed underneath for reinforaement. -‘I N Patching Place patch over worn part. Sew along edge of patch on right side. Trim away worn part close to seam on wrong side. When patching jersey materials, reduce pressure of foot a little to prevent materials from stretching. Pin patch on worn part and sew. Paper may be laid underneath material, to give more body to the materia...
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