Assessments - 1, GPA: 5
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The water utility supply meter may contain a check valve, backflow preventer or water pressure reducing valve which will create a closed water system. During the heating cycle of the water heater, the water expands causing pressure inside the water heater to increase. The temperature and pressure relief valve may discharge hot water under these conditions which results in a loss of energy and a build-up of lime on the relief valve seat. To prevent this from happening, there are two recommendations: 1. Install a diaphgram-type expansion tank that is suitable for potable water on the cold water supply line. The expansion tank must have a minimum capacity of 1.5 U.S. gallons for every 50 gallons of stored water. 2. Install a 125 PSI pressure relief valve in the cold water supply line. Make sure the discharge of this valve is directed to an open drain and protected from freezing. Contact the local water supplier or plumbing inspector for information on how to control this situation. Do not plug the temperature and pressure relief valve. Instructions for use Starting and testing Temperature Setting Before connecting the power, fill the tank and system with water and check for leaks. To be certain that all air is out of the water system, open the hot water faucets on your fixtures until constant water flows from them otherwise damage to the element may occur. To start the heating cycle: A) first make sure tank is full. Otherwise the heating element may be damaged. B) the red light will come on and remain on until that temperature has been reached, at which point the light will go off, but will automatically come back on when the water temperature drops below the setting chosen. After installation check the water temperature. If adjustment is necessary remove front cover to adjust thermostat D (fig. 3/5 - clockwise to increase the temperature and anticlockwise to decrease it). To reach the thermostat lift the plate V using a thin screw-driver operating on point W (fig. 3/4). Unscrew the screw below and lift the cover C. When reassembling work in the opposite way being careful to insert first the tongue of the cover into the slot. Maintenance instructions Note: Do not attempt to repair this water heater yourself. Call a service person for assistance. Always turn off the power supply to the heater prior to servicing or draining the heater. PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND PARTS REPLACEMENT Note: For most of these operations, the water will have to be drained from the heater. For all of these operations the power supply needs to be shut off and the front cover removed. Remove cover plate V (fig. 3/4) using a thin screw-driver operating on point W (fig. 3/4). Unscrew the screw below and lift the cover C (fig. 3/4). When reassembling work in the opposite way being careful to insert first the tongue of the cover into the slot. Draining 1) If the heater has been installed with flexible hoses, shut off the power supply and the Heater turn the heater upside down over a sink to drain the water out of it, OR 2) If the heater has been installed with rigid piping, siphon the water out through any (lower) service valve on the (inlet side). Keep a hot water faucet open while siphoning the water out, OR 3) If the heater has been installed with flexible hoses, it can also be emptied by siphoning through the inlet side hose. Keep a hot water faucet open while siphoning. Removing 1. Turn off power supply and drain the heater (see previous section). the heating 2. Remove the front cover plate, disconnect terminals X, Y and T (fig. 3/3). element 3. Unscrew the 4 heating element retaining nuts F (fig. 3/3). 4. Remove the element. G (fig. 3/1). Descaling Scale deposits can affect the heating capability of the element. the heating Heavy scale can even cause the element to burn out. The element can be descaled either chemically or manually: element A) Soak the element in white vinegar or other descaling solution. Once descaled, rinse well with fresh water, to which you should add some baking soda, OR B) Once the element has dried up, use a soft brush (non metallic to prevent damaging the stainless steel sheath) on element. Brush the dried mineral off. Reinstall the element with gasket and make the wire connections. C) Replace anode rod if considerably shorter then diagram. WARNING: make sure the tank has been refilled with water before restoring power. REPLACEMENT OF PARTS The anode rod (N fig. 3/2) helps protect the tank against corrosion. Depending on the Changing water condition, the magnesium anode rod may need to be changed every year or so. the anode Galvanic and electrolytic corrosion can destroy a tank if the anode rod is “spent”. rod Rusty water is usually an indication of a “spent” anode rod. If rusty water is present, examine anode rod immediately. Rapid degradation of the anode rod (less than 1 year) may indicate the presence of galvanic corrosion due to “stray” direct current. In this case, it may be necessary to add a “grounding str...
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