Assessments - 3, GPA: 3.7
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Facilidade de uso
This kit has almost everything you need to connect an amplifier to your vehicle’s existing auto sound system. Wire Ties (10) What’s Included Before you use this wiring kit, make sure you have these materials: Phillips and flat-blade screwdrivers . a socket wrench with standard and metric sockets wire crimper . wire cutter . wire stripper . hex key set You might also need a soldering iron and solder, heat shrink tubing, and electrical tape. What You Will Need 20-ft. Stereo Interconnect Cable 20-ft. 8-gauge Red Power Cable 4-ft. 8- gauge Black Ground Cable 6-ft. Black Split Tubing 40-ft. 16-gauge Speaker Wire 20-ft. 18-gauge Remote Turn-On Cable 1 Grommet 6 Vinyl Insulator Boots (2 black, 2 red large, 2 red small) 4 Tapping Screws 1 Ring Terminal 2 C-type 18-gauge Spade Terminals 3 C- type 8- gauge Spade Terminals 1 red Vinyl Cover 4 Butt Connectors (2 large, 2 small) 6 Fully Insulated Quick Disconnects for 16-gauge Speaker Wire (3) .205”, and (3) .110” 60-Amp AGU Fuse & In-Line Fuse Holder Before You Begin Before you use your wiring kit, read all the instructions in this user’s guide. You should be able to answer all of these questions about your vehicle’s electrical and auto sound systems. • Does my vehicle have an auto sound system, such as a car stereo or CD player, already installed? • Which of the auto sound system’s wires is the power wire? • Which of the auto sound system’s terminals are low-level and which are high-level (speaker) outputs? • How will wires be passed through the vehicle’s firewall? Routing Cables and Wires To help reducing electrical noise, route the stereo interconnect cable and any power wires separately on opposite sides of your vehicle. Route all wires away from other high- voltage areas of your vehicle such as ignition control modules or other vehicle control systems. Avoid routing the connection cables and any wires near moving parts or sharp edges. You can usually route wires and cables along the wiring channel beneath the vehicle’s door facings by carefully removing the molding that holds the carpet in place. After routing the cables and wires, replace the molding. Tip: For easier installation, mark a wire you plan to connect with the name of the terminal you will connect it to. 1 — Power Cable 3 — Ground Cable 5 — Remote Turn On Cable 2 — In-Line Fuse 4 — Stereo Interconnect Cable 6 — Speaker Wires Before You Make Connections To make it easier to connect the amplifier, temporarily place it as close as possible to the selected mounting location. Caution: For added safety and to protect your amplifier and auto sound system, disconnect the cable from your vehicle’s negative (–) battery terminal before you begin. Notes: • If you accidentally cut a wire or if the wire supplied with your auto sound system or amplifier you can use the supplied butt connectors to connect wires to eachother. • If the connectors on your vehicle’s auto sound system are not compatible with the amplifier’s connectors, you might need an adapter harness to complete the connections. • You might need additional wire, depending on your individual auto sound system, to complete the connections. Your local RadioShack store carries a full line of wire and wire management accessories. 1. If you have not done so already, disconnect the cable from your vehicle’s negative (– ) battery terminal. 2. Route the supplied red power cable from the amplifier to your vehicle’s battery. 3. Slide the supplied split tubing onto the exposed red power cable, leaving about 12 inches (30.5 cm) of cable exposed near the battery. Then secure the split tubing inside the engine compartment using some of the supplied wire tie. 4. Cut the red power cable about 8 to 12 inches (20.3 to 30.5 cm) from the end near the battery, and then slide the wide end of one of the supplied red vinyl insulator boots ontothe short piece of cable. Leave about 1 inch (2.5 cm) cable exposed above the boot. 5. Strip about 1/ 2 inch (1.3 cm) of insulation from the end of the short piece of cable near the boot, and then twist the wire so it will fit into the small end of one of the supplied ring terminals. Then insert the wire inside the ring terminal. Use a wire crimper to crimp the terminal, and slide the boot over the terminal so it covers the joint. 6. Disassemble the fuse holder by unscrewing and removing both of its end caps. Then slide both terminals out of the clear tube of the fuse holder. 7. Strip about 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) of insulation from the other end of the short piece of cable. Twist the bare wire and insert it into one of the detached end cap. 8. Use a 1/ 8 inch hex key to loosen the screw at both terminals, and insert the short piece of cable into the fuse terminal and below the screw. Then tighten the screw to fasten the cable in place. 9. Repeat Steps 7 and 8 to connect the cable to the fuse holder for the other end. Caution: Make sure there is no fuse inside the fuse holder before continuing. 10. Connect the red power cable to your vehicle’s po...