Assessments - 3, GPA: 4
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3. When making this adjustment, MAKE SURE THE MACHINE IS DISCONNECTED FROM THE POWER SOURCE and lower the blade as far as possible. Rotate the blade by hand to make certain the teeth do not contact any metal surfaces and adjust if necessary. After adjustment is completed, tighten locknut (A) Fig. 29. A B C Fig. 29 13 1313 ADJUSTING BLADE GUARD After an extended period of time the movable blade guard (A) Fig. 30, might become sloppy and move erratically when the cuttinghead is lowered. This can be easily corrected by slightly tightening nut (B) until the lower blade guard (A) moves smoothly. A B Fig. 30 TYPICAL OPERATIONS AND HELPFUL HINTS 1. Before cutting, make certain the cutting arm and table area are at their correct settings and firmly locked in place. 2. Before cutting, determine that the workpiece is the right size for the saw. 3. Place the workpiece on the table and hold or clamp it firmly against the fence. 4. WARNING: If the workpiece causes your hand to be inside the table hazard area (see section “TABLE HAZARD AREA”), clamp the workpiece in place before making the cut. 5. For best results, cut at a slow, even cutting rate. 6. Never attempt any freehand cutting (wood that is not held firmly against the fence and table). AUXILIARY WOOD FENCE When performing multiple or repetitive cut-off operations that result in small cut-off pieces (one inch or less), the saw blade can catch the cut-off pieces and project them out of the machine or into the blade guard and housing, possibly causing damage and/or injury. In order to limit the possibility of personal injury or blade guard damage, an auxiliary wood fence can be mounted to your saw as follows: Holes are provided in the fence to attach an auxiliary fence (A) and (B) Fig. 31. This auxiliary fence is constructed of straight wood approximately 1/4” thick by 3/4” high by 16 inches long as shown at (B); and 1/2” thick by 5” high by 17” long (A) Fig. 31. NOTE: The auxiliary fence (A) is used only with the saw blade in the 0 degree bevel position (90 degrees) to the table. The auxiliary fence must be removed for all bevel cuts (blade tilted). B A Fig. 31 14 1414 CUTTING ALUMINUM Aluminum extrusions (aluminum screens and storm windows) can easily be cut with your miter saw. When cutting aluminum extrusions, or other sections that can be cut with a saw blade and are within the capacity of the machine, position the material so the blade is cutting through the smallest cross-section, as shown in Fig. 32. The wrong way to cut aluminum angles is illustrated in Fig. 33. Be sure to apply a stick wax (similar to Johnson’s stick wax #140) to the blade before cutting any aluminum stock. This stick wax is available at most industrial mill supply houses. The stick wax provides proper lubrication and keeps chips from adhering to the blade. NEVER APPLY LUBRICANT TO THE BLADE WHILE THE MACHINE IS RUNNING. FENCE FENCEBLADE BLADE Fig. 32 Fig. 33 CUTTING BOWED MATERIAL 1. When cutting flat pieces, first check to see if the material is bowed. If it is, make sure the material is positioned on the table as shown in Fig. 34. 2. If the material is positioned the wrong way, as shown in Fig. 35, the workpiece will pinch the blade near the completion of the cut. Fig. 34 Fig. 35 RIGHT WRONG CUTTING CROWN MOULDING One of the many features of the saw is the ease of cutting crown moulding. The following is an example of cutting both inside and outside corners on 52/38 degree wall angle crown moulding. NOTE: The following procedure for inside or outside crown molding corners is the same with the exception that the bevel position will always be at 30 degrees and the miter position will be 35-1/4 degrees to the right or left. 1. Move the table to the 31-5/8th degree right miter position and lock the table in position. NOTE: A positive stop is provided to find this angle quickly. 2. Tilt the saw blade to the 33-7/8 degree left bevel position and tighten bevel lock handle.NOTE: A triangle indicator is provided on the bevel scale to find this angle quickly. 3. Place the crown moulding on the table with the CEILING EDGE of the moulding against the fence, and make the cut, as shown in Fig. 36. NOTE: The piece of crown moulding used for the outside corner will always be on the right hand side of the blade, as shown at (A) Fig. 36. The piece of crown moulding used for the inside corner will always be on the left hand side of the blade, as shown at (B) Fig. 36. B A Fig. 36 15 1515 4. To make the matching halves of the inside and outside corners, simply rotate the table to the 31-5/8 degree left miter position. NOTE: A positive stop is provided to find this angle quickly. The saw blade is already tilted to the 33-7/8 degree bevel position from the previous cut. 5. Place the crown moulding on the table with the WALL EDGE of the crown moulding against the fence and make the cut. Again, the piece of crown moulding used for the outside corner will always be on the right side of the blade, as shown at (C...